Shimshal, Matilda and Enki in the Marquesas from Ruffian

Shimshal, Matilda and Enki in the Marquesas from Ruffian

Another OCC gathering

Jamie amd Sunyoung arrove in their nesting tender

Matilda and Enki

Ruffian

Dué

Pacific Wind

Photos

Tim

Why don’t our legs want to work?

A few days ago we arrived at the Marquesas islands after 3 weeks at sea. We headed for the island of Hiva Oa and anchored in Atuona Bay. We had little choice where our first land fall was as, like when you arrive in a new country by plane,  you have to pass through immigration, there are only 2 places this can happen. So, that afternoon,  we went ashore and walked the 2 or 3 km into town to present our passports and the ships papers to the local Gendarmerie. It was admittedly rather hot but 3km should not realy be an issue,  we all felt we had walked for miles though. 

Immigration proved easy once we had actually managed to get into the building,  we had all the correct information and delt with a very friendly Gendarme. After a quick visit to the shop we headed back, feeling as if we had worked hard all day.  I suppose sitting still for 3 weeks has that affect on your legs.

The sailing community are a friendly bunch,  we were lucky to have arrived on a Friday when there was a pop up restaurant on the quayside. After cooking from tins for a while the draw of steak frits with a group of people who we last saw in Galapagos and had all completed the same passage was to much so we gave in. A very pleasant evening with huge portions of food and friendly people was enjoyed by all.

The following day we spent just wandering the local town, we sat and drank fruit juice and coffee with a couple from another boat and watched the world go by. They mentioned that they were planning a hike the next day to a beach and invited us to join them. It was only 5 km each way, how hard could it be?!!.

We packed a very sad lunch, none of the shops were open so it was chewie bars and dried fruit,  carried 5 litres of water between the 2 of us and put shoes on for the first time in ages. 

The trail was beautiful,  high above the sea round headlands with views in every direction,  our legs decided they did remember how to walk but only slowly,  we put that down to the 32 degrees temperature and the steep slopes.  The beach,  when we first saw it as we rounded a corner, was out of this world, clear blue waters,  white sands backed by coconut palms. Every inch a tropical paradise.  We swam, sat in the shade of the palms,  swam some more and finally, reluctantly set out to walk back. We decided 10 km was enough for one day. On the way back we stopped of at the only open hotel we could find, here they served a cold beer with stunning views , the perfect way to end a good day out. Even the legs forgave us.

After 3 days of eating ashore,  different company and exploring we are moveing on. The anchorage was, unfortunately very open to the Pacific swells and so poor old Shimshal was rolling mightily each night, using the dingy was an adventure in its self and the nights were far from peacefully.  We have gone in search of calm, sheltered bays and smooth, still nights. 

Tim

Heather’s Pacific Crossing video

Heather’s Pacific Crossing video

The delights of Hiva Oa

Hiva Oa arrival

Fairy Tern

Atuona outer harbour

Atuona inner harbour

OCC Pop up supper at the dinghy dock

Thoughts on crossing an ocean

20 days ago we pulled up the anchor in Santa Cruz, Galapagos and headed off out into, or perhaps i should say on to?, the Pacific. I had no real idea what to expect,  the longest passage before that was out from Panama,  6 days or so.

Now we are about 230 miles out from the Marquesas,  less than 48 hours all being well. 

As we left the Galapagos, first the islands grew smaller and finally dipped below the horizon,  they were  visible for a good 40 miles or so, then we could still see the clouds which hung above them like a huge white hat, finally they too faded into a darkening evening sky and were gone before sunrise the next day. There were still signs of land, had we known more of the old ways of navigation we would have recognised more I'm sure, birds still flew around Shimshal,  the further away we got from land the less we saw,  different species dropped away at different times until we were left with only the little black petrels which have accompanied us all the way. At about 500 miles out we saw our last dolphins, a pod of 20 or more frolicking in our bow wave, although they are deep water animals the next time we would see them was 2 days ago, coincidentally about 500 miles from land. 

As we have neared the Marquesas the birds have also started to come back, now again we get regular visits from boobies and even the odd frigate birds. Apparently the old navigators would follow the birds to land, knowing which ones return each evening to roost would help here big time.

Whilst in mid ocean we were never completely alone,  we had an incredible experience with what we believe were false killer whales which spent a while in very close company to Shimshals hull and playing in our wake. 

Finally we can not forget the flying fish, morning and evening we have seen them, sparkling in the sun as they seemingly launch them selves randomly sky wards and ricochet off the waves before splashing back into the water, they do cover quite long distances but more gliding than flying and without much directional control. There are generally quite large numbers and we have debated the collective noun for flying fish,  should it be school,  flock, shole,  flight, or my favourite a squadron?

Very soon into the voyage days became meaningless,  much more important were our routines, our watch rota, advancing each day to ensure all got a turn at the  better time slots. Who was cooking dinner today and what were we having?, and the weekly clock change,  back an hour each Wednesday lunch time which ensured as we moved ever Westward it stayed dark at night.

We have had some heroic cooking exploits, Heathers bread, Pad thai, many scones and a version of rock cakes made with what was available on board which were christened "balast buns". We have eaten well, the fresh fruit and veg lasting well. Even now we have plenty of onions and potatoes,  a few tomatoes an a single carrot which will not make it past supper time. Much longer and everything would be dried or tinned. A big green salad would be good though.

We have been lucky with the weather,  unlike some other boats, we haven't had to resort to the motor or sit with sails flapping waiting for wind. Some times winds have been light and we have only made 3 knots but we have kept moving.  A couple of nights have got uncomfortable,  squalls and rain showers passing quickly through bringing strong and changeable gusts. On these occasions we have had sleepless nights with regular reefing exercise. Mostly however we have had good winds mostly going where we want to go. I guess that is why you choose this time of year to sail the Pacific .

The odd thing has broken, everything which did has been fixed or replaced,  Sally now has a list of replacement spares needed for next time. It has become a regular feature of the day to examine the rigging for wear or rubbing. 

In general,  the crossing has been very pleasant,  plenty of time to read, sit and watch the ocean roll past, the time we swam miles away from anywhere, 4km off the bottom. Opportunities like this come rarely and must be taken, how many others get the chance to sail across an ocean. 

Tomorrow we will start to look for the big fluffy white clouds which we know will be hanging above the mountains. We will have crossed our ocean but this is not the end of the trip. We have new places and cultures to explore,  the French connection here to exploit by eating their bread and cheese and more adventures to have.

Well, I say crossed,  so far we have sailed 4000 miles Westward from Panama,  that puts us just over ½ way across the Pacific.  We are about to arrive in the Marquesas,  another group of islands to explore. After that we will continue onwards to the Tuamotus,  a archipelago of coral atolls.  Our time in French Polynesia is limited,  from the day we arrive in the Marquesas we have only 90 days before our visa expires, (thanks brexit). Therefore at some point Heather and I will have to leave Shimshal and fly onwards to Tahiti and our flights to Canada.  Simon and Sally,  who have long stay visas, will continue for a while before getting Shimshal pulled out of the water in a boat yard. There she will stay until next season when they will return to sail on through the Pacific to Fiji and eventually New Zealand. 

Tim